Purchasing a diamond is an exciting event, one which is easier if you approach it intelligently and well informed. The 5 C Rules will help simplify your search for your diamond. Your final choice should both please you and assure years of enjoyment. We recommend that you contact a reliable jeweler, one who can assist you with good advice. We want your buying experience to be a gratifying one. To get the most out of this Help Guide, please read about:
1. The 5 C's, to understand the important parameters used when evaluating diamonds.
2. "Purchasing a Diamond," our recommendations on selecting the right stone. The important 4 C's that apply when evaluating diamonds are: Cut , Color ,Clarity , Carat Weight and Symmetry. The fifth C - Certificate - recommended for stones larger than 0.50 carat. A certificate will grant you a piece of mind in knowing that your diamond has been carefully examined and certified by an internationally renown laboratory. Click here for more information about Certificates.
Cut
Diamonds are cut into a number of different shapes, depending on the nature of the rough stone. The more popular shapes are round, marquise, oval, pear, heart, princess, and emerald. A well-cut diamond is the result of precision work by a master craftsman.
When a particular shaped stone is cut to good proportions, the diamond will handle light better, create more reflections and give more sparkle. A good cut brings out the brilliance and fire to a diamond. Click here for more information about Cut.
The cut of a diamond, also referred to as the "make", refers to the proportions of the diamond, depending on its shape. Proper cutting and proportioning release the full beauty of a diamond, and influence it's beauty, durability, and price.
Fine cutting of a diamond requires the skill of an experienced diamond cutter. The cut sets the proportions of the stone, and determines how much brilliance and fire the stone will have.
Cutting a diamond considers the optical properties of the raw stone. Proper cutting determines how much light entering the stone from the top is reflected off the inner walls and refracted back up through the top of the stone, the "crown", to give the maximum brilliance and fire.
Cuts are graded according to these qualities:Excellent, Very good, Good, Fair and Poor. 
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Color
Diamonds, as they exist in nature, come in a range of colors, ranging from colorless to light yellow or brown. Naturally, the best color for a high quality diamond is colorless. An absolutely colorless diamond allows more white light to pass through it and be dispersed in a dazzling rainbow of colors.
There is also a group of diamonds known as "fancy colored" diamonds. For example the colors in this group may be pink, blue, green, or other colors being rare therefore, more expensive. Diamonds come in many colors, from nearly colorless to light yellow or brown. Diamonds are graded according to a scale that ranges from totally colorless (D) to light yellow (Z). The differences between these grades are very subtle.
Each letter grade represents a narrow range of color: |
D, E, F - Colorless. |
This is the most expensive group. |
G, H, I, J - Near colorless. |
High in color, since it can't be detected in mounted stones. |
K, L, M, N - Faint yellow |
Shows slight yellow color, noticeable from the top of the stone and more from the sides. |
O, P, Q, R - Very light yellow |
Shows yellow color even when mounted in jewelry. |
S to Z - Light yellow |
Shows it's color even when the diamond is loose or mounted. |
Color Grading. To accurately color grade diamonds, they are compared to a set of diamonds of known color, called 'master stones'. The diamond color grading scale, established by Gemological Institute of America (GIA), is the most accurate color scaled developed to date. The GIA scale is used to evaluate all the diamonds in the world. D, E, F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S to Z Fancy Colorless Near Colorless Faint Yellow Very light Yellow Light Yellow Fancy Yellow.
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Clarity
The clarity of a diamond is determined by the number, size, and location of inclusions in a diamond. Most diamonds contain very tiny natural internal marks known as inclusions and external marksare known as blemishes.
The fewer and tinier the inclusions, the less interference they offer to light passing through the stone. Thus the degree of brilliance increases, and likewise, the beauty and price of the diamond. A diamond that is free of inclusions is rare, but when found, is a very valuable stone.
Inclusions can be seen by examining a diamond using a 10x magnifier, called a loupe. Click here for more information about Clarity.
As a diamond forms in nature, almost every diamond develops imperfections. These might be microscopic cracks (often shaped like feathers) or diamond crystals, or even non-diamond crystals. These imperfections do not mar the beauty or endanger the durability of the diamond. However, the fewer the inclusions, the rarer and more valuable the diamond may be.
These inclusions reflect the clarity of the stone, and render every diamond unique. To determine its clarity, a diamond is examined under a 10x-magnification lens (called a loupe) by a trained eye. Diamonds can also have external imperfections, known as blemishes.
Clarity is graded according the following scale:
Flawless (FL) considered the highest grade. Diamonds will be without imperfections when viewed with 10x magnification.Even if any external blemishes are detected, the diamond is graded as Internally Flawless.
Internally flawless (IF) Diamonds have only minor surface blemishes, but no inclusions.
Very Very Small Inclusions (VVS1, VVS2) The VVS category is divided into two classes. Any VVS inclusion will be very difficult for an experienced examiner to detect using 10x-power magnification.
Very Small Inclusions (VS1, VS2) The VS category is divided into two classes. The VS inclusion will be difficult for an experienced examiner to detect using 10x-power magnification.
Small Inclusions (SI1, SI2, SI3) The SI category is divided into two classes. The inclusions and imperfections are easily visible with the aid of 10x magnification.While SI1 imperfections cannot be seen with the naked eye, in some cases, SI2 inclusions are visible without magnification.
Imperfect (I1, I2, I3) Flaws in this category are visible with the naked eye. For diamonds in I1 class, the imperfection is not large enough to detract from the general brilliance of the stone. I2 and I3 class diamonds have large imperfections, which are easily visible to the naked eye. I3 class diamonds are close to rejection grade stones. Diamonds any lower than I3 are considered as industrial diamonds.
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Carat Weight
Carat-weight is the diamond's weight measured in carats. One carat is divided into 100 points (thus a diamond of 65 points weighs 0.65 carat). Carat-weight is simply determined by placing the diamond on a precision weigh scale, or by measuring the diameter of the stone with a gauge that converts the measurement to the carat-weight of the stone. Click here for more information about Carat-weight.
The carat weight is a unit of measure, and used to weigh diamonds. (A carat is equal to 1/5th of a gram, or 0.007 of an ounce.) Diamonds are sold according to price per carat.
Jewelers will also say, "this diamond weighs 56 points." The term 'point' also refers to weight. A point is equal to 100th of a carat (there are 100 points in a carat).
Diamonds are divided into distinct groups - by weight. Between each weight group, the price jumps. Because of these increases, purchasing a diamond that weighs only .89 carat, instead of .90 carat, for example, may save you hundreds of dollars, yet show very little difference in size to the naked eye.
The following are the weight groups:
1/10 |
Carat |
(10 points) |
From |
$49 |
1/5 |
Carat |
(20 points) |
From |
$149 |
1/4 |
Carat |
(25 points) |
From |
$169 |
1/3 |
Carat |
(33 points) |
From |
$249 |
1/2 |
Carat |
(50 points) |
From |
$898 |
3/4 |
Carat |
(75 points) |
From |
$1188 |
1 |
Carat |
(100 points) |
From |
$1980 |
1 1/2 |
Carat |
(150 points) |
From |
$2980 |
2 |
Carat |
(200 points) |
From |
$3980 |
LARGER STONES AVAILIBLE uPON REQUEST |
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Certificate
We recommend that diamonds larger than 0.50 carat should be supplied with a certificate. The certificate, issued by an independent and accredited laboratory, assures that an objective analysis of the quality characteristics of a diamond was performed.
The diamond is graded for color, clarity, proportions, finish, weight and fluorescence. The inclusions in the diamond are highlighted on a diagram to show position and type. The certificate is signed, dated, and assigned a report number to prove authenticity.
The leading laboratories which issue diamond certificates and are recognized in the global diamond industry are:
GIA - Gemological Institute of America
EGL - European Gemological Laboratory
IGI - International Gemological Institute
AGS - American Gem Society
HRD - Hoge Raad Voor Diamants
The diamond is submitted to one of these labs for certification. The lab is impartial in it's examination to ensure that the diamond and precious gemstone is graded accurately.
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Proportion details
You can also compare the details of a diamond's physical proportions. These values are listed in the certificate. The two most important physical aspects of a diamond are it's depth and table. To get the maximum brilliance and sparkle out of a diamond, it is cut to certain dimensions that take into account the optical properties of the stone.
Diamonds are composed of the following major parts:
Crown (top part of the stone)
Pavilion (bottom part of the stone)
Girdle (the point where the crown meets the pavilion) Depth percentage (%):This factor affects the life and brilliance of a diamond. The height of the stone divided by the diameter (in rounds) or the width (in other shapes) gives the depth percentage. Stones that are too shallow or too deep simply do not look good.
For round stones, the depth percentage can vary between 55% and 65%. For fancy shapes it may be deeper or shallower.
Table percentage (%)
The table is the big facet on the top part of the diamond. The diameter of the table divided by the diameter of the stone gives the table percentage. Very big or very small tables will adversely affect a stone's beauty.
For round stones, the table percentage can vary between 50% and 70%. In fancy shapes it may be larger.
Girdle thickness
The girdle is the part of the diamond where the bottom and the top meet. The girdle is an indicator of the quality of the diamond's cut. Very thick girdles are signs of bad cutting and these stones should be cheaper in price. Extremely thin girdles are prone to damage, and should be avoided.
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